SAUVIGNON AND SEMILLON: The Benefits of Blending

Sauvignon blanc, the white grape variety which originated in Bordeaux, has given New Zealand its most internationally famous wine. It is our shining star in the world's vinous firmament. The reason for this is the stunning aromas and flavours which sauvignon develops in our unique soils and climates, something which has not been matched anywhere else. The character of sauvignon depends on a group of naturally occurring compounds called methoxypyrazines, which give a dazzling array of widely differing smells and tastes. To some extent these depend on the speed and degree of ripening of the grapes. Initially green and grassy characters predominate but with more time on the vine, nuances of crushed herbs, rosemary and thyme, come to the fore. Further down the track, currants and gooseberries emerge and these are followed by passionfruit, lychees, fresh figs and stone fruit. There is no other grape variety which can provide such a diverse and complex spectrum. If ripened too far or too rapidly, such as in a hot climate, sauvignon blanc loses all its excitement and ends up as a flavourless, neutral, flabby non-descript white wine. We don't allow this to happen at Pegasus Bay!

It sounds perfect, doesn't it? So, why would we want to sully it with that other grape called semillon? It doesn't have the same exciting aroma and flavour profile. When the wine is made from ripe grapes but is young, it has the character of hay or straw, rather than the grassy elements which can sometimes be seen in sauvignon blanc.

Otherwise, however, it is relatively non-descript. Why then, do we blend this with our marvellous sauvignon blanc, as they have traditionally done in Bordeaux? It all has to do with texture, palatal length and longevity.

While sauvignon can give you an unbelievable fix of aromas and flavours, it often finishes short so that it lacks body, mouth-feel and persistence of flavour. In addition, it tends not to age well. Enter semillon, a grape which fills out the holes. The wine is full-bodied, adds structure and ages well. In fact, after several years in the bottle, semillon becomes a great wine in its own right, developing remarkable rich toasty and savoury characters.

At Pegasus Bay, we are not only concerned with up-front fruit flavours but also texture, mouth-feel, palate length, and longevity. Hence, we blend the traditional French mix of sauvignon blanc and semillon to produce a better wine than we could by using either variety alone. The sauvignon blanc is picked when the mix of methoxypyrazines is perfect, and then cold-fermented in stainless steel tanks to retain these racy aromas and flavours. The semillon is harvested fully ripe and fermented in barriques to help it develop richness and length. Both are aged on their natural yeast lees to provide a creamy mid-palate texture. They are then carefully blended in the optimum proportions, according to taste, to provide what we think is the best and most satisfying wine. We hope you enjoy it!

WINTER DELIGHTS

Nature is at its most exciting when there are distinct seasonal cycles -- clear delineation between autumn, winter, spring and summer. Our winery and restaurant are attuned to this natural rotation. After Easter, when our winery is frantic with the first vintage of this millennium, we will continue to have cellar door sales daily but will serve food only at the weekends and on public holidays. At these times we will be able to devote our full attention to you and provide the best of autumn and winter fare. When the sap starts to rise in our vines and the vineyard bursts into leaf, our restaurant will again blossom into activity seven days a week. We look forward to welcoming you with a very special menu over the winter. Come and join us around the log fire!

PEGASUS FLOWERS

Have you ever noticed how you enjoy the same piece of music more in one surrounding than in another? All sensuous pleasures, including fine wine and food, depend for their full appreciation on the proper ambience. That's why Pegasus Bay has taken the trouble to create the right setting for its fine buildings. Not only are we lucky enough to be in a picturesque valley surrounded by scenic ranges of hills, but we have a natural gulley with a chain of small lakes, an amphitheatre and gardens. Mention gardens to a Kiwi and somewhere behind the iris, deep pools of imagination and longing well up. We have a range of gardens and lawns from the formal to those with a natural woodland setting. Tables and seats are scattered amongst them.

Now our gardens will continue to blossom throughout the year with an outstanding series of sculptures which we have been fortunate to obtain from internationally renowned artists. Featured is A born thing and a dying thing by Japanese sculptor, Masahiro Murakami. Death and decay are seen above, while vigorous emergence of new life occurs below. It is the cycle of nature and the seasons of the vineyard personified!

But, as any homeowner knows, gardens don't form and maintain themselves. We are indebted to a tireless duo for their work in our gardens. Phil Stewart, who is 83, has been with us for many years and recently handed over the reins (or mower) completely to Anne Gibbs and Linda Tayles. We raise our glasses to toast the fine work that they do, having filled them with Pegasus Bay wine, naturally!

FROM THE PRESCRIPTION PAD

Coffee versus Wine: Naked discrimination

Do you enjoy a cup of good coffee? Like me, you probably do. Current scientific evidence, however, suggests you will have to stop calling it good. A few months ago, America's most prestigious medical journal, The New England Journal of Medicine, reported the results of a scientific study and ran an editorial on coffee and caffeine. By using a method of chemical analysis of blood samples, the study was able to show that consumption of six cups of coffee or more a day led to a number of problems during pregnancy, including low birth weight and miscarriage. Further scientific analysis has revealed that even scoffing one or two cups of coffee a day is likely to have some adverse effect. This is serious stuff, given that the average consumption of coffee in many countries, including the United States, exceeds this.

It shouldn't surprise us, however, as we have known about the effects of coffee on the nervous system for centuries. Caffeine, to some extent, acts on the chemical transmitter systems in the brain in a way that is similar to amphetamines and cocaine. It has well-recognised effects on behavior, sleep, pulse, heart rhythm and steadiness of the hands, in addition to a number of other properties. It readily crosses the placenta into the foetus and is found in breast milk. Foetuses and the newborn cannot break down and eliminate caffeine from their bodies as readily as adults.

What has this got to do with wine? To my mind, it just goes to show that American legislation is more one-eyed and myopic than Nelson with his telescope. As I mentioned in my last newsletter, all bottles of wine in the USA have to carry the wording that Women should not drink alcoholic beverages during pregnancy. In spite of the fact that caffeine has not been shown to have the positive health benefits of wine and that its effects on pregnancy have been known for over 20 years, coffee is not required to carry any health warning.

Well, I guess this is all just part of the outdated and puritanical view on life which we have inherited from our Victorian forebears. Wine is enjoyable so therefore it must be sineful and ultimately bad for you. Before the bureaucrats totally take over our lives, might I suggest you use common sense and enjoy both a cup of coffee and a glass of wine with me. After all, nothings beats moderation!

Cheers, Ivan Donaldson